One of the many places in New York City that I didn’t get to on my first trip was Harlem.
With the focus of that visit primarily being on more touristy activities and generally soaking up the festive atmosphere of the Big Apple in December, we didn’t often stray far from Midtown Manhattan.
Of course there were exceptions – such as Katz’s Deli in the Lower East Side and Chelsea Market – but Central Park’s Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis Reservoir was about as far north as we got.
When it comes to New York soul food restaurants, Sylvia’s is probably the most famous but it was Amy Ruth’s that really caught my eye when I was browsing through guide books prior to my most recent NYC trip.
A warm welcome
As someone who has spent most of my time in touristy areas, wandering the streets of Harlem almost felt like a completely different city to Midtown Manhattan, but arriving at Amy Ruth’s felt like coming home to a warm hug.
We were greeted by our absolutely lovely server Tasha and shown to our seats in the back. Despite having to juggle a larger than expected private party, she was unbelievably attentive.
I had been eyeing up the chicken and waffles but after foolishly visiting Levain Bakery and satisfying my sweet tooth with one of their (admittedly decent but nothing special) cookies just before this, so I had to go down the completely savoury route instead.
Fried chicken with two sides is named ‘The President Barack Obama’ and the 44th President of the United States is one of several black icons immortalised in mural form on the walls of the restaurant, alongside the likes of Muhammad Ali, Michael Jordan and Malcolm X, to name just a few.
I went for leg and thigh rather than breast and wing; you can also have the chicken smothered, baked or BBQ-style. I paired it with the mashed potatoes and the cheesy grits – something I’ve been wanting to try ever since watching My Cousin Vinny.
Within 15 minutes of ordering, we had our food. The chicken leg was a really good size and was served piping hot, fresh from the fryer.
The batter almost had an orange hue to it, unlike anything I’ve seen before. Whatever it was, I need much much more where that came from. The skin was impossibly crispy and flavourful, without ever feeling greasy.
That skin made way to some of the juiciest and most delicious chicken I’ve had the pleasure of experiencing in my 32 years.
The mash was an absolute delight and the chicken gravy it was served with was so bursting with flavour that, in comparison, it made KFC gravy seem like that lumpy stuff you used to get served at school.
Grits weren’t really my bag. They reminded me a bit of rice pudding but when combined with the gravy, I still managed to wolf down most of the generous serving that was spilling out of one side of the bowl.
An unexpected highlight of the meal was the grape Kool-Aid, which Tasha told us had been mixed with lemonade to “give it that little extra something”. Despite it already being a huge glassful, I could have happily just sat there all day drinking that.
The verdict
I don’t think it’s an overreaction to say that Amy Ruth’s was the highlight of the entire trip, especially in a culinary sense. I’m just disappointed in myself that I’d slightly filled up on cookies before sitting down for lunch there.
When I’m eventually lucky enough to return, I’m going to have to go with a completely empty stomach; the waffles and homemade baked mac & cheese are calling my name.
Is Harlem or Amy Ruth’s on your NYC bucket list? Let me know in the comments.
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